Colored transparent or translucent cosmetic composition

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a transparent or translucent colored cosmetic composition for making up the skin, lips and superficial body growths comprising a transparent or translucent cosmetic base and at least one coloring agent in an amount such that the transmission of a 10 μm layer of the final composition, measured at the wavelength of the maximum of one of the absorption peaks of the coloring agent, is between 20% and 80%.

The present invention relates to transparent or translucent cosmeticcompositions capable of depositing a color on the skin, lips orsuperficial body growths, and to a process for preparing them.

The contribution of color to the skin, the lips and superficial bodygrowths, in particular the hair, nails and eyelashes, has always been animportant subject of research in the cosmetics field and veryparticularly in the field of make-up.

This contribution of color is generally carried out in the form of whiteor colored pigments, optionally in combination with dyes, in cosmeticbases giving rise to covering colored coats (lipstick, mascara, eyeshadow, eyeliner, nail varnish, foundation) or semitransparent coloredcoats (foundation, eye shadow, lipstick, nail varnish), the desiredeffect generally being the production of an intense color or the maskingof underlying imperfections.

In the field of foundations, for example, the masking of skinimperfections by covering or semicovering products is, however,virtually always accompanied, despite the application as a very finelayer, by a degree of visibility of the coat and by an unnaturalappearance, which is generally undesirable.

Furthermore, there exist cosmetic compositions, such as care creams,which, after application as a fine layer, are entirely transparent orelse sufficiently translucent (see WO 98/5234) to retain the naturalappearance of the skin and to only lightly mask the imperfections of thelatter. However, these products do not make it possible to color thephysiological substrate on which they are deposited.

The inventors set a target of developing a novel range of noncoveringmake-up products which make it possible to deposit a color on the skin,lips or superficial body growths while remaining entirely “invisible”,that is to say products capable of giving coats which are sufficientlytransparent or translucent to retain the natural appearance of theunderlying surface.

A subject matter of the present invention is consequently transparent ortranslucent colored cosmetic compositions for making up the skin, lipsand superficial body growths comprising a bulk transparent ortranslucent cosmetic base and at least one coloring agent in an amountsuch that the transmission of a 10 μm layer of the final composition,measured at the wavelength of the maximum of one of the absorption orscattering peaks of the coloring agent, is between 20% and 80%.

Another subject matter of the invention is a process for the preparationof a transparent or translucent colored cosmetic composition describedabove.

The cosmetic compositions which are a subject matter of the presentinvention thus make it possible to color the substrate on which they areapplied while giving, by virtue of the high “transparency” of the coatobtained, a perfectly natural appearance to the surface thus covered.

The colored cosmetic compositions of the present invention have, ascharacteristic, not only the coloring capability and the transparency ofthe coat obtained but also a “bulk” transparent or translucentappearance. This property of bulk transparency or translucency meansthat a layer with a thickness arbitrarily set at 1 cm allows a portionof the visible light to pass through, either while scattering it (bulktranslucent compositions) or without scattering it (bulk transparentcompositions).

This transparent or translucent appearance is highly satisfactory froman esthetic viewpoint and can for this reason be of great commercialinterest.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are characterized inthat they have a transmission at a thickness of 10 μm, measured at thewavelength of the maximum of one of the absorption or scattering peaksof the coloring agent, of between 20% and 80%.

This layer thickness of 10 μm at which the measurements of transmissionof the compositions of the present invention are carried out was chosenbecause it corresponds substantially to the thickness of a make-up coatobtained, for example, with a foundation or a lipstick. The valuesobtained by these measurements therefore give a good description of whatis commonly known as “make-up rendering”, that is to say of theimmediate visual impression which the make-up layer gives.

The transmission as defined here is equal to the ratio of the intensityof light transmitted by the sample (I_(t)) to the intensity of lighttransmitted by the control (I₀), express as a %:T(%)=I _(t) /I ₀

The inventors use specific sample carriers in order to be able to carryout measurements over a layer thickness of 10 μm.

They consist of a transparent glass or quartz slide, the size of whichdepends on the measuring cell of the spectrophotometer used (20 mm×10mm×3 mm for a Cary 300), exhibiting at its surface a flat recess with adepth of 10 μm. This flat recess is filled with the sample and theexcess is optionally leveled down using a slide, so as thus to obtain aperfectly even layer with a thickness of 10 μm.

The measurements are carried out using a double-beam UV/visiblespectrophotometer, Cary 300 model from Varian, in transmission mode andby using, as control, a transparent slide (of quartz or of glass) withan identical thickness to that receiving the sample.

As indicated above, the transmission values indicated for thecompositions according to the invention are those measured at thewavelength corresponding to the maximum of one of the absorption peaks(dye) or scattering peaks (pigment) of the coloring agent in the visiblelight region (λ=400 to 750 nm).

The error in the measurement of the transmission is ±5%.

The “bulk” transparency or translucency of the colored cosmeticcompositions of the present invention is evaluated visually for a layerthickness of 1 cm.

The transparent or translucent colored cosmetic compositions areobtained by virtue of the combination of:

-   -   (1) a bulk transparent or translucent cosmetic base, and    -   (2) at least one appropriate coloring agent.

The cosmetic bases which can be used for the preparation of thecompositions of the present invention can be composed of anycosmetically acceptable base which meets the conditions of transparencyor of translucency essential for the production of the transparent ortranslucent colored cosmetic compositions.

These conditions of transparency or of translucency are:

-   -   (1) good bulk transparency or translucency of the colorant-free        base, assessed visually for a thickness of 1 cm, and    -   (2) a transmission of the base comprising the colorant or        colorants measured for a thickness of    -   10 μm at the wavelength of the maximum of one of the absorption        or scattering peaks of the coloring agent used of between 20%        and 80%.    -   good bulk transparency or translucency of the colorant-free        base, assessed visually for a thickness of 1 cm, and    -   a transmission of the base comprising the colorant or colorants,        measured for a thickness of 10 μm at the wavelength of the        maximum of one of the absorption or scattering peaks of the        coloring agent used, of between 20% and 80%.

It can relate to hydrophilic or lipophilic phases with a liquid,thickened, gelled, pasty or solid consistency.

Preferably, the base of the composition is in the form of an aqueous oroily gel which is more or less rigid. More especially, this gel is arigid gel presented in a dish or as a stick, preferably as a stick, andin the anhydrous form. In particular, this base is an anhydrousfoundation or lipstick base.

The oily base comprises a fatty phase which is liquid at ambienttemperature, such as those used conventionally in cosmetics. This fattyphase can comprise polar oils and/or nonpolar oils.

In particular, the polar oils of the invention are:

-   -   (1) hydrocarbonaceous vegetable oils with a high content of        triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol,        the fatty acids of which can have various C₄ to C₂₄ chain        lengths, it being possible for these chains to be linear or        branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in        particular wheat germ, maize, sunflower, karite, castor, sweet        almond, macadamia, apricot, soybean, cottonseed, alfalfa, poppy,        pumpkinseed, sesame, cucumber, rapeseed, avocado, hazelnut,        grape seed, blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley,        quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower or musk        rose oil; or triglycerides of caprylic/capric acid, such as        those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names        Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel;    -   (2) synthetic oils or synthetic esters of formula R_(a)COOR_(b)        in which R_(a) represents the residue of a linear or branched        fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R_(b)        represents a hydrocarbonaceous chain, in particular a branched        hydrocarbonaceous chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms,        provided that R_(a)+R_(b) is ≧10 such as, for example, purcellin        oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C₁₂ to C₁₅        alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,        isostearyl isostearate, or octanoates, decanoates or        ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols; hydroxylated        esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and        pentaerythritol esters;    -   (3) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;    -   (4) C₈ to C₂₆ fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol;    -   (5) C₈ to C₂₆ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linolenic acid        and linoleic acid; and    -   (6) mixtures thereof.

The nonpolar oils according to the invention are in particular siliconeoils, such as volatile or nonvolatile and linear or cyclicpolydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are liquid at ambient temperature;polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy side groups and/oralkyl or alkoxy groups at the chain end, which groups each have from 2to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones,phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or(2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates; volatile or nonvolatile andlinear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin, such asvolatile liquid paraffins (isoparaffins, such as isododecane) ornonvolatile liquid paraffins, and their derivatives, liquid petrolatum,liquid lanolin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleamoil, squalane or arara oil; and their mixtures.

The oils are preferably nonpolar oils and more especially an oil or amixture of oils of the hydrocarbonaceous type of mineral or syntheticorigin chosen in particular from alkanes, such as parleam oil,isoparaffins, such as isododecane, squalane and their mixtures. Theseoils are advantageously used in combination with one or more phenylatedsilicone oils.

The liquid fatty phase preferably comprises at least one nonvolatile oilchosen in particular from hydrocarbonaceous oils of mineral, vegetableor synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers, silicone oils and theirmixtures.

The total liquid fatty phase represents, in practice, from 5 to 99.95%,preferably from 10 to 80%, and more preferably from 20 to 75%, of thetotal weight of the composition.

This fatty phase is advantageously structured by a gelling agent forfatty phases, such as:

-   -   (1) gelling polyamides, in particular with a molecular mass of        less than 100 000, and preferably less than 50 000, for example        with a molecular mass ranging from 2 000 to 20 000, optionally        comprising alkyl side groups or alkyl groups at the chain end        having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 60        carbon atoms,    -   (2) hydrophobic galactomannans comprising in particular from 1        to 6, and preferably from 2 to 4, OH groups per monosaccharide        unit which are substituted by a C₁₋₆, preferably C₁₋₃, alkyl        group,    -   (3) hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas,    -   (4) and the combinations of these gelling agents.

The gelling polyamides are, for example, the polyamide resins resultingfrom the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and of adiamine, including the compounds having more than 2 carboxyl groups andmore than 2 amine groups, the carboxyl and amine groups of adjacentindividual units being condensed by an amide bond. These polyamideresins are in particular those sold under the Versamid® trademark byGeneral Mills Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid® 930, 744 or 1655) or byOlin Mathieson Chemical Corp. under the Onamid® trademark, in particularOnamid® S or C. These resins have a weight-average molecular massranging from 6 000 to 9 000. For further information on thesepolyamides, reference may be made to U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,645,705 and3,148,125. More specifically, use is made of Versamid® 930 or 744.

Use may also be made of the polyamides sold by Arizona Chemical underthe Uni-Rez references (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554,2623, 2662) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 byHenkel. For further information on these polyamides, reference may bemade to U.S. Pat. No. 5,500,209.

The polyamides can also be those resulting from a polycondensationbetween a carboxylic diacid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms (inparticular from 32 to 44 carbon atoms) and a diamine having at least 2carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms). The diacid ispreferably a dimer of a fatty acid having at least 16 carbon atoms, suchas oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferablyethylenediamine, hexylenediamine or hexamethylenediamine. If thepolymers comprise one or two end carboxylic acid groups, it isadvantageous to esterify them with a monoalcohol having at least 4carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 36 carbon atoms, more preferablyfrom 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 16 to 24carbon atoms, for example, 18 carbon atoms.

These polymers are more especially those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No.5,783,657 of Union Camp. Each of these polymers satisfies in particularthe following formula (I):

in which n denotes a whole number of amide units such that the number ofester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of the esterand amide groups; each of the R₁ symbols independently denotes an alkylor alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 4to 24 carbon atoms; each of the R₂ symbols independently represents a C₄to C₄₂ hydrocarbonaceous group, provided that 50% of the R₂ groupsrepresent a C₃₀ to C₄₂ hydrocarbonaceous group; each of the R₃ symbolsindependently represents an organic group provided with at least 2carbon atoms, with hydrogen atoms and optionally with one or more oxygenor nitrogen atoms; and each of the R₄ symbols independently represents ahydrogen atom, a C₁ to C₁₀ alkyl group or a direct bond to R₃ or toanother R₄, so that the nitrogen atom to which both R₃ and R₄ are bondedforms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R₄—N—R₃, with at least50% of the R₄ groups representing a hydrogen atom.

In the specific case of the formula (I), the optionally functionalizedend fatty chains within the meaning of the invention are end chainsbonded to the final heteroatom, in this instance nitrogen, of thepolyamide backbone.

In particular, the ester groups of the formula (I), which form part ofthe end and/or side fatty chains within the meaning of the invention,represent from 15 to 40% of the total number of the ester and amidegroups, and more preferably from 20 to 35%. Furthermore, nadvantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and preferablyof greater than 2.

Preferably, R₁ is a C₁₂ to C₂₂ alkyl group and more preferably a C₁₆ toC₂₂ alkyl group. Advantageously, R₂ can be a C₁₀ to C₄₂hydrocarbonaceous (alkylene) group. Preferably, at least 50%, and morepreferably at least 75%, of the R₂ symbols are groups having from 30 to42 carbon atoms. The other R₂ symbols are C₄ to C₁₉ and even C₄ to C₁₂hydrogenated groups. Preferably, R₃ represents a C₂ to C₃₆hydrocarbonaceous group or a polyoxyalkylene group and R₄ represents ahydrogen atom. More preferably, R₃ represents a C₂ to C₁₂hydrocarbonaceous group.

The hydrocarbonaceous groups can be linear, cyclic or branched andsaturated or unsaturated groups. Furthermore, the alkyl and alkylenegroups can be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated groups.

According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase ispreferably obtained using one or more polymers of formula (I). Ingeneral, the polymers of formula (I) are provided in the form of blendsof polymers, it being possible for these blends to additionally comprisea synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (I) where nhas the value 0, that is to say a diester.

These polymers, because of their fatty chain(s), exhibit good solubilityin oils and thus result in macroscopically homogeneous compositions,even with a high (at least 25%) level of polymer, in contrast topolymers devoid of a fatty chain.

Mention may be made, as preferred structuring polymers of formula (I)which can be used in the invention, of the polyamides modified by sidefatty chains and/or end fatty chains having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms,and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, the end fatty chains beingbonded to the polyamide backbone via ester groups. These polymerspreferably comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymer backboneand in particular of the polyamide backbone.

Mention may be made, as examples of structuring polyamides of formula(I) which can be used in the composition according to the invention, ofthe commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the namesUniclear® 80 and Uniclear® 100. They are sold respectively in the formof an 80% (as active material) gel in a mineral oil and of a 100% (asactive material) gel. They have a softening point of 88 to 94° C. Thesecommercial products are a blend of copolymers of a C₃₆ diacid condensedwith ethylenediamine, with a weight-average molecular mass respectivelyof approximately 600 or 4 000. The end ester groups result from theesterification of the remaining acid endings with cetyl alcohol orstearyl alcohol or their mixtures (also known as cetearyl alcohol).

The galactomannans are in particular ethylated guar derivatives havingespecially a degree of substitution of 2 to 3, such as those sold byAqualon under the names N-Hance-AG-200® or N-Hance-AG-50®.

The pyrogenic silica preferably exhibits a particle size which can benanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately from 5to 200 nm.

Pyrogenic silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of avolatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finelydivided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtainhydrophilic silicas which exhibit a large number of silanol groups attheir surfaces. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold underthe names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® andAerosil 380® by Degussa or under the names Cab-O-Sil HS-5®, Cab-O-SilEH-5®, Cab-O-Sil LM-130®, Cab-O-Sil MS-55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5® by Cabot.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica by achemical reaction which reduces the number of silanol groups. It ispossible in particular to substitute silanol groups by hydrophobicgroups and thus to obtain a hydrophobic silica. The hydrophobic groupscan be:

-   -   (1) trimethylsiloxy groups, which are obtained in particular by        treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of        hexamethyldisilazane and are named “Silica silylate” according        to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995); they are sold, for example,        under the name Aerosil R812® by Degussa and under the name        Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by Cabot;    -   (2) dimethylsilyloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are        obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the        presence of polydimethylsiloxane or of dimethyldichlorosilane        and are named “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA        (6th edition, 1995); they are sold, for example, under the names        Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by Degussa and under the names        Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by Cabot; and    -   (3) groups resulting from the reaction of the pyrogenic silica        with alkoxysilanes or siloxanes; these treated silicas are, for        example, those sold under the reference Aerosil R805® by        Degussa.

When the gel is an aqueous gel, use may be made of any gelling agent foraqueous phases of the cellulose derivative type, such ashydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, or acrylic derivativetype, such as crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and of C₁₀₋₃₀ alkylacrylates, for example the Pemulen® series and Carbopol® 980, which aresold by Goodrich, clay derivatives of the sodium magnesium silicatetype, such as Laponite XLS or XLG, sold by Laporte, and the combinationsof these gelling agents. The aqueous gel can be a water-based gel or agel based on a water/alcohol mixture.

The gelling agent represents from 0.05 to 90% by weight, preferably from2 to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, of thetotal weight of the colored cosmetic composition.

The transparent or translucent cosmetic bases used according to theinvention are preferably substantially colorless.

One or more coloring agents is introduced, according to the presentinvention, into these transparent or translucent cosmetic bases.

According to the present invention, the term “coloring agent”encompasses in particular water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments,pearlescence agents, lakes and their mixtures.

Mention may be made, as water-soluble dyes, of synthetic dyes, such asfuchsin, plant extracts, such as extracts of sorghum, of Pterocarpussoyauxii, of Monascus, of Lawsonia inermis, of Mercurialis perenis, ofHelianthus aanus, of Impatiens balsamina, of Curcuma longa, ofPhytolacca decandra, of Solidago aureus, of Juglans regia, of Irisgermanica, of Alkanna tinctoria, of Chrozophoro tinctoria or of Isatistinctoria, and the mixtures of these dyes.

The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red III (CTFA: D&C Red 17),lutein, quinizarin green (CTFA: D&C Green 6), alizurol purple SS (CTFA:D&C Violet No. 2), carotenoid derivatives, such as lycopene, β-carotene,bixin or capsantein, annatto and fuchsin derivatives (see Example 2),and their mixtures.

A number of these dyes, such as extracts of Pterocarpus soyauxii,Monascus and Lawsonia inermis, have a strong affinity for the skin andcan thus confer a semipermanent coloring thereon, that is to say acoloring which withstands being washed several times.

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or colored,inorganic or organic and coated or uncoated particles. Mention may bemade, for example, of titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, zinc, ironor chromium oxides, ferric blue, chromium hydrate, carbon black,ultramarines (polysulfides of aluminum silicates), manganese violet,manganese pyrophosphate and some metal powders, such as silver oraluminum powders, and their mixtures.

The term “pearlescence agents” is understood to mean white nacreouspigments, such as mica covered with titanium oxide or with bromuthoxychloride, and colored nacreous pigments, such as titaniumoxide-coated mica covered with iron oxides, ferric blue or chromiumoxide or with a precipitated typical organic pigment.

The lakes which can be used in the compositions of the present inventionare, for example, lakes based on cochineal carmine or based on calcium,barium, aluminum, strontium or zirconium salts, on acid dyes, and theirmixtures.

The amount of coloring agent is determined for the present invention.This is because this amount directly determines the transmission of thecomposition, which, for a thickness of 10 μm, has to be between 20% and80% at the wavelength corresponding to the maximum of one of theabsorption or scattering peaks of the coloring agent.

Below a certain amount of coloring agent (transmission at 10 μm ofgreater than 80%), the composition will give rise to a coat which issufficiently transparent or translucent to retain the natural appearanceof the skin, lips or superficial body growths but it will not allow acoloring visible to the naked eye to be introduced.

On the other hand, for an excessively high proportion of coloring agent(transmission at 10 μm of less than 20%), the color of the make-up coatwill certainly be visible but the transparency or the translucency ofthe latter will be insufficient to retain the natural appearance of theskin. Furthermore, cosmetic compositions comprising an excessively highproportion of coloring agent will exhibit unsatisfactory bulktransparency or translucency.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the colored cosmeticcompositions have a transmission, measured for a thickness of 10 μm, atthe wavelength corresponding to the maximum of one of the absorption orscattering peaks of the coloring agent, of between 25% and 80%.

The process for determining the appropriate amount of coloring agentwhich makes it possible to obtain transparent or translucent coloredcompositions according to the present invention will be described inmore detail below.

The appropriate amount of coloring agent will obviously depend on itsphysicochemical properties, such as its solubility in the cosmetic base,its particle size or its molar coefficient of absorption (ε).

The transparent or translucent colored cosmetic compositions accordingto the present invention generally comprise from 0.05% to 3% by weight,and preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, of coloring agent(s), on thebasis of the total weight of the colored cosmetic composition. For thepearlescence agents, it is possible to range up to 3% by weight; for thepigments, the lakes or the dyes, the range preferably only extends up to1% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the colored cosmeticcomposition comprises at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble dyewhich is soluble in the cosmetic base.

In another particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, thecolored cosmetic composition comprises, as coloring agent(s), solely oneor more dyes which are soluble in the cosmetic base and is devoid ofinsoluble coloring agents of pigment, pearlescence agent or lake type.

In a more particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention,the cosmetic base is a lipophilic base comprising one or more lipophilicdyes which are soluble in the latter.

This is because such compositions, comprising solely soluble dyes, havea good coloring power in combination with excellent transparencyproperties due to the absence of scattering of the light by insolubleparticles.

Another subject matter of the present invention is a process for thepreparation of the transparent or translucent colored cosmeticcompositions of the present invention which has, as maincharacteristics:

-   -   (1) choosing an appropriate transparent or translucent cosmetic        base, and    -   (2) apportioning the coloring agent(s), that is to say the        incorporation of an appropriate amount of coloring agent(s)        which makes it possible to solve the technical problem at the        source of the invention, that is to say the production of a        colored coat having a transmission (at 10 μm and at λ_(max)) of        between 20% and 80%.

The determination of the appropriate amount of coloring agent comprisesthe steps consisting of:

-   -   (1) selecting a transparent or translucent cosmetic base as        described above,    -   (2) preparing a series of samples of this transparent or        translucent cosmetic base comprising increasing amounts of a        coloring agent dissolved or dispersed in said cosmetic base,    -   (3) spreading each of the samples thus prepared over a        transparent slide exhibiting a recess with a depth of 10 μm,    -   (4) optionally leveling out the excess of the sample, so as to        obtain a layer with a thickness of 10 μm,    -   (5) measuring, for each of the samples, the transmission of said        layer at the wavelength corresponding to the maximum of one of        the absorption or scattering peaks of the coloring agent, and    -   (6) plotting the transmission=f(concentration of the coloring        agent) calibration curve.

Colored cosmetic compositions are subsequently prepared by incorporatingone or more coloring agents in a transparent or translucent cosmeticbase which is identical to or different than that selected in step (1)above and which is in the liquid state, each of the coloring agentsbeing incorporated in an amount giving, from the calibration curveprepared for each coloring agent, a transmission (at 10 μm) of between20% and 80%, preferably between 25% and 80%.

To receive the coloring agent, the cosmetic base must, of course, be inthe liquid state. The liquid consistency can be a property of the baseas such at ambient temperature or it can be the result of the melting ordissolution of a cosmetic base which is solid at ambient temperature.

The solid anhydrous cosmetic bases preferred according to the presentinvention are preferably liquefied by melting at a temperature slightlyabove their melting point.

The present invention is illustrated by the following examples:

EXAMPLE 1

Lipstick Uniclear ® 100 25% Octyldodecanol 10% Rocou ® 0.2%  (coloringactive material) Parleam oil q.s. for 100% by weight Uniclear ® 100:condensate of a hydrogenated C₃₆ diacid and of ethylenediamineesterified with stearyl alcohol (weight-average molar mass approximately4 000), sold by Arizona Chemical. Rocou ®: 4% solution of annatto seedsin soybean oil (CI: 75120), sold by Warner-Jenkinson.

The Uniclear® 100 and the oils are introduced into a casserole. Thecombined contents are stirred magnetically and are heated in a firststep to 100° C. to bring the Uniclear to the liquid state. Heating isthen continued as far as the temperature necessary to produce ahomogeneous transparent liquid. The mixture is then placed at 10° C.above this temperature. The dye is introduced into the mixture and thecombined contents are homogenized with magnetic stirring for 1 hour. Thecomposition is cast in a mold heated at 45° C. to form a stick which isplaced, after solidification has begun, in a freezer for 15 minutes(−21° C.).

The composition obtained has a bulk translucent appearance (1 cm) andgives rise to a completely transparent coat with an orange color havinga transmission at 498 nm (λ_(max) of the dye) and at a thickness of 10μm of 78%.

EXAMPLE 2

Lipstick Uniclear ® 100 25% Octyldodecanol 10% MMB Red ® 33/3 complex0.2%  (coloring active material) Parleam oil q.s. for 100% by weightUniclear ® 100: condensate of a hydrogenated C₃₆ diacid and ofethylenediamine esterified with stearyl alcohol (weight-average molarmass approximately 4 000), sold by Arizona Chemical. MMB Red ® 33/3complex: dye sold under this name by Phytocos and denoting the mixture:disodium salt of fuchsin acid D/lysine palmitate-myristate/dipropyleneglycol/benzoic acid/phenoxyethanol/3% solution of D&C Red No. 33 (CI17200)/preservatives: methyl, butyl, ethyl, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate.

A stick is prepared by the same process as in Example 1.

The composition obtained has a bulk translucent appearance (1 cm) andgives rise to a completely transparent coat with a fuchsia pink colorhaving a transmission at 530 nm (λ_(max) of the dye) and at a thicknessof 10 μm of 40%.

1. A transparent or translucent colored cosmetic composition for makingup at least one of skin, lips and superficial body growths, comprising abulk transparent or translucent cosmetic base and at least one coloringagent in an amount such that the transmission of a 10 μm layer of saidcosmetic composition measured at the wavelength of the maximum of theabsorption or scattering peak of the at least one coloring agent rangesfrom 20% to 80%.
 2. The colored cosmetic composition according to claim1, wherein the transparent or translucent cosmetic base is asubstantially colorless base.
 3. The colored cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic base is chosen from aqueousgels and oily gels.
 4. The colored cosmetic composition according toclaim 3, wherein the gel is in stick form.
 5. The colored cosmeticcomposition according to claim 1, wherein the base is an anhydrous gelformed from a fatty phase which is liquid at ambient temperaturecomprising an oil chosen from polar oils and nonpolar oils, wherein thefatty phase is structured by a gelling agent for fatty phases which ischosen from at least one of hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas, gellingpolyamides, and hydrophobic galactomannans.
 6. The colored cosmeticcomposition according to claim 5, wherein the gelling polyamidecorresponds to the formula (I):

in which n represents a whole number such that the number of estergroups ranges from 10% to 50% of the total number of the ester and amidegroups; R₁, which may be identical or different, represents a groupchosen from alkyls having at least 4 carbon atoms and alkenyls having atleast 4 carbon atoms; R₂, which may be identical or different,represents a C₄ to C₄₂ hydrocarbonaceous group, provided that 50% of theR₂ groups represent a C₃₀ to C₄₂ hydrocarbonaceous group; R₃, which maybe identical or different, represents an organic group having at least 2carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and optionally at least one atom chosenfrom oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms; and R₄, which may be identical ordifferent, represents a group chosen from hydrogen atoms, C₁ to C₁₀alkyls, optionally directly bonded to R₃ or to another R₄, so that thenitrogen atom to which both R₃ and R₄ are bonded forms part of aheterocyclic structure defined by R₄—N—R₃, with at least 50% of the R₄groups representing a hydrogen atom.
 7. The colored cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 6, wherein R₁, which may be identical or different,represents a group chosen from alkyls having 4 to 24 carbon atoms andalkenyls having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.
 8. The colored cosmeticcomposition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one coloringagent is chosen from at least one of water-soluble dyes, fat-solubledyes, pigments, pearlescence agents, and lakes.
 9. The colored cosmeticcomposition according to claim 8, wherein the water-soluble dye ischosen from at least one of extracts of sorghum, Pterocarpus soyauxii,Monascus, Lawsonia inermis, Mercurialis perenis, Helianthus aanus,Impatiens balsamina, Curcuma longa, Phytolacca decandra, Solidagoaureus, Juglans regia, Iris germanica, Alkanna tinctoria, Chrozophorotinctoria, and Isatis tinctoria.
 10. The colored cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 8, wherein the fat-soluble dye is chosen from atleast one of Sudan red III, lutein, quinizarin green, alizural purpleSS, carotenoid derivatives, annatto derivatives, and fuchsinderivatives.
 11. The colored cosmetic composition according to claim 10,wherein the carotenoid derivative is chosen from lycopene, β-carotene,bixin, and capsantein.
 12. The colored cosmetic composition according toclaim 8, wherein the pigment is chosen from at least one of whiteinorganic pigments, colored inorganic pigments, white coated inorganicpigments, colored coated inorganic pigments, white organic pigments, andcolored organic pigments.
 13. The colored cosmetic composition accordingto claim 12, wherein the pigment is chosen from at least one of titaniumdioxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide,chromium oxide, ferric blue, chromium hydrate, carbon black,ultramarines, manganese violet, manganese pyrophosphate, and metalpowders.
 14. The colored cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 13,wherein the metal powder is chosen from silver powders and aluminumpowders.
 15. The colored cosmetic composition according to claim 8,wherein the pearlescence agent is chosen from mica covered with at leastone of titanium oxide and bismuth oxychloride and titanium oxide-coatedmica covered with at least one of iron oxide, ferric blue, chromiumoxide, and precipitated organic pigments.
 16. The colored cosmeticcomposition according to claim 8, wherein the lake is chosen from atleast one of lakes based on cochineal carmine, lakes based on at leastone of calcium salts, barium salts, aluminum salts, strontium salts, andzirconium salts, and lakes based on acid dyes.
 17. The colored cosmeticcomposition according to claim 8, wherein the composition comprises atleast one dye chosen from water-soluble dyes and fat-soluble dyes,wherein the dye is soluble in the cosmetic base.
 18. The coloredcosmetic composition according to claim 17, wherein the compositioncomprises, as the at least one coloring agent, at least one dye which issoluble in the cosmetic base and wherein the composition is devoid ofinsoluble coloring agents chosen from pigments, pearlescence agents, andlakes.
 19. The colored cosmetic composition according to claim 17,wherein the cosmetic base is a lipophilic base and wherein thecomposition comprises at least one lipophilic dye which is soluble inthe lipophilic base.
 20. The colored cosmetic composition according toclaim 1, wherein the at least one coloring agent is present in an amountsuch that the transmission of the 10 μm layer of the compositionmeasured at the wavelength of the maximum of the absorption orscattering peak of the at least one coloring agent ranges from 25% to80%.
 21. The colored cosmetic composition according to claim 1, whereinthe amount of the at least one coloring agent ranges from 0.05% to 3% byweight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
 22. Thecolored cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount ofthe at least one coloring agent ranges from 0.1% to 1% by weight withrespect to the total weight of the composition.
 23. The colored cosmeticcomposition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is chosen fromanhydrous lipstick forms and anhydrous foundation forms.
 24. A processfor the preparation of a transparent or translucent colored cosmeticcomposition for making up skin, lips and superficial body growths,comprising a bulk transparent or translucent cosmetic base and at leastone coloring agent in an amount such that the transmission of a 10 μmlayer of the composition measured at the wavelength of the maximum ofthe absorption or scattering peak of the at least one coloring agentranges from 20% to 80%, wherein the process comprises: (1) selecting thecosmetic base, (2) preparing a series of samples of the cosmetic basecomprising increasing amounts of the at least one coloring agentdissolved or dispersed in the cosmetic base, (3) spreading each of thesamples thus prepared over a translucent slide having a recess withdepth of 10 μm, (4) optionally leveling the sample so as to obtain aneven layer with a thickness of 10 μm, (5) measuring, for each of thesamples, the transmission of the layer at the wavelength correspondingto the maximum of the absorption or scattering peak (λ_(max)) of the atleast one coloring agent, (6) plotting a calibration curve wherein thevalues of the transmission at (λ_(max)) is a function of theconcentration of the at least one coloring agent, and (7) incorporatingthe at least one coloring agent in a transparent or translucent cosmeticbase which is identical or different from that selected in step (1)above and which is in a liquid state, the at least one coloring agentbeing incorporated in the cosmetic base in an amount which, according tothe calibration curve prepared for each coloring agent, results in atransmission at 10 μm of ranging from 20% to 80%.
 25. The process asclaimed in claim 24, wherein the transmission in step (7) ranges from25% to 80%.